Prince William Sound Kayak 2014
On 10 June, 2014, I flew to Anchorage, Alaska where I met friends Greg Scarich, Louisa Bonnie, and Dave Erskine. We were starting a 21-day kayak trip in Prince William Sound, which is a very popular kayak destination in Alaska, second only to Glacier Bay. The next day, we took a bus to Whittier, a small Alaska town on the coast. We spent the afternoon practice-packing our gear into the two double Seaward Passat G3 kayaks we rented from Peter Denmark at Alaska SeaKayakers. The following day, the Alaska Ferry took us, our kayaks, and our gear to Chenega Bay, a small native village in the Southwest part of the Sound, about 75 miles away.
We loaded the kayaks and started paddling in the late afternoon. Our route would eventually take us back to Whittier with many side trips along the way. We had food for 10 days and all the gear needed for our excursion. To keep from having to carry 20 days of food, we had contacted the remote Eshamy Lodge and arranged for them to pick up the 10 days of food we had left In Whittier. When we stopped for the food resupply, we had a great dinner at the lodge which gave us a short break from camping food.
For the first 10 days, we saw no one on land and just a few fishing boats on the water. It was a real wilderness experience. The highlights were visiting Nassau Fjord and Icy Bay, both of which contained large tidewater glaciers. We were able to watch calving ice from our kayaks. The second 10 days were spent in more populated water. The salmon commercial fishing season was open and we saw a hundred boats netting salmon during one 2-day period. During the 5 nights we spent in Nellie Juan Bay, the boat traffic dwindled but we did encounter other kayakers for the first time. Most charter a boat from Whittier and then spend several days paddling around the more interesting areas. The main attraction was a spectacular calving glacier in the ice-filled lagoon behind Dickerson Bay.
The weather was quite wet during the first part of the trip, but was sunny at the end. Most of the rain fell at night so we rarely paddled in the rain. Mosquitos were no problem but we had bothersome no-see-ums for 3 days. We paddled every day except two but changed camp only 10 times. Total miles paddled was 278. Everything worked very well. We had good camaraderie, lots of food, plenty of box wine, good coffee in the morning, and proper equipment. One exception was Greg and Louisa’s tent. The rain fly tore badly on day 1 and they had to use our 10 x 12 foot tarp to provide rain protection. But this worked out very well. We carried an extra tent (a Megamid) which served as a cook tent.
We saw sea lions and their pups on the floating ice sheets where they give birth. We also saw many sea otters and eagles. One eagle picked up a large fish from the water in front of our kayaks and proceeded to have lunch on the shore while we watched. But in general, the wildlife and bird viewing was disappointing. We saw only 1 whale and our land mammal count consisted of 1 marmot and 2 mice. We saw black bear tracks once. There are no grizzlies in the areas we paddled.
Organizing a trip on your own is very cost effective. Our ground cost in Alaska for the 21 days of paddling was less than $1000 per person for everything except the food we brought from home. This is less than half of what a 4 night commercial trip costs.
For people who are interested in more detail, the two attached maps of Prince William Sound show our route. To follow the detailed itinerary below, it is easier if you follow the route on the maps. While paddling, we used the waterproof National Geographic map of Prince William Sound West, which was excellent. It contained little kayak symbols showing possible campsites for kayakers. A guidebook titled “Kayaking & Camping in Prince William Sound” by Paul Twardock, was useful.
ITINERARY
Day 1 - 6/12 - 4 Miles - Took Alaska Ferry from Whittier to Chenega Bay. Camp was north of the ferry terminal on the east side of Evans Island. We camped quickly to avoid a storm.
Day 2 - 6/13 - no paddling - Layover day due to storm.
Day 3 - 6/14 - 14 miles - Paddled to Knight Island and camped on Squire Island at the kayak symbol on the NG map.
Day 4 - 6/15 - 22 miles - Paddled around Squire Island. That evening, we paddled to Dual Head and camped at kayak symbol. We wanted to get back across Knight Island Passage before upcoming major storm. Very good camp.
Day 5 - 6/16 - 8 miles - Layover day - Paddled into Humpback Cove early and then waited out storm at camp.
Day 6 - 6/17 - 9 miles - Paddled to Nassau Fjord and camped at kayak symbol inside the fjord at NW corner. 3 nights here
Day 7 - 6/18 - 4 miles - Layover day - Paddled around icebergs in Nassau Fjord.
Day 8 - 6/19 - 17 miles - Layover day - Paddled in and out of Icy Bay.
Day 9 - 6/20 - 16 miles - Paddled to Ewan Bay. Camped at small island at SE end of Bay.
Day 10 - 6/21 - 13 miles - Paddled to Eshamy Bay Lodge for food resupply. Bought a great dinner at the lodge. Camped on small island ¼ mile east of the lodge.
Day 11 - 6/22 - 15 miles - Paddled to Lighthouse Reserve and camped at kayak symbol east of light.
Day 12 - 6/23 - 17 miles - Paddled into Nellie Juan and camped ¼ mile west of kayak symbol in Deep Water Bay next to the river and waterfall. 5 nights here.
Day 13 - 6/24 - 14 miles - Layover day - Paddled into lagoon with icebergs at Derickson Bay.
Day 14 - 6/25 - 23 miles - Layover day - Paddled to Taylor Glacier in Kings Bay.
Day 15 - 6/26 - no paddling - Layover day - Hiked above camp on a rainy day.
Day 16 - 6/27 - 23 miles - Layover day - Paddled to Greystone Bay and then did a 2nd trip into Derickson Lagoon.
Day 17 - 6/28 - 20 miles - Paddled to Long Bay half way up Culrose Passage. Camped at very nice improved camp at the kayak symbol on north side of entrance to Long Bay.
Day 18 - 6/29 - 5 miles - Layover Day - Paddled to end of Long Bay and hiked to Shrode Cabin.
Day 19 - 6/30 - 15 miles - Paddled to Tebenkof Glacier and camped at the kayak symbol.
Day 20 - 7/1 - 26 miles - Layover day. Paddled to south end of Willard Island in Blackstone Bay.
Day 21 - 7/2 - 13 miles - Paddled to Whittier fighting head winds for the last 3-4 miles.
Total miles paddled = 278 miles, which included 131 miles of paddling during layover days.
Read MoreWe loaded the kayaks and started paddling in the late afternoon. Our route would eventually take us back to Whittier with many side trips along the way. We had food for 10 days and all the gear needed for our excursion. To keep from having to carry 20 days of food, we had contacted the remote Eshamy Lodge and arranged for them to pick up the 10 days of food we had left In Whittier. When we stopped for the food resupply, we had a great dinner at the lodge which gave us a short break from camping food.
For the first 10 days, we saw no one on land and just a few fishing boats on the water. It was a real wilderness experience. The highlights were visiting Nassau Fjord and Icy Bay, both of which contained large tidewater glaciers. We were able to watch calving ice from our kayaks. The second 10 days were spent in more populated water. The salmon commercial fishing season was open and we saw a hundred boats netting salmon during one 2-day period. During the 5 nights we spent in Nellie Juan Bay, the boat traffic dwindled but we did encounter other kayakers for the first time. Most charter a boat from Whittier and then spend several days paddling around the more interesting areas. The main attraction was a spectacular calving glacier in the ice-filled lagoon behind Dickerson Bay.
The weather was quite wet during the first part of the trip, but was sunny at the end. Most of the rain fell at night so we rarely paddled in the rain. Mosquitos were no problem but we had bothersome no-see-ums for 3 days. We paddled every day except two but changed camp only 10 times. Total miles paddled was 278. Everything worked very well. We had good camaraderie, lots of food, plenty of box wine, good coffee in the morning, and proper equipment. One exception was Greg and Louisa’s tent. The rain fly tore badly on day 1 and they had to use our 10 x 12 foot tarp to provide rain protection. But this worked out very well. We carried an extra tent (a Megamid) which served as a cook tent.
We saw sea lions and their pups on the floating ice sheets where they give birth. We also saw many sea otters and eagles. One eagle picked up a large fish from the water in front of our kayaks and proceeded to have lunch on the shore while we watched. But in general, the wildlife and bird viewing was disappointing. We saw only 1 whale and our land mammal count consisted of 1 marmot and 2 mice. We saw black bear tracks once. There are no grizzlies in the areas we paddled.
Organizing a trip on your own is very cost effective. Our ground cost in Alaska for the 21 days of paddling was less than $1000 per person for everything except the food we brought from home. This is less than half of what a 4 night commercial trip costs.
For people who are interested in more detail, the two attached maps of Prince William Sound show our route. To follow the detailed itinerary below, it is easier if you follow the route on the maps. While paddling, we used the waterproof National Geographic map of Prince William Sound West, which was excellent. It contained little kayak symbols showing possible campsites for kayakers. A guidebook titled “Kayaking & Camping in Prince William Sound” by Paul Twardock, was useful.
ITINERARY
Day 1 - 6/12 - 4 Miles - Took Alaska Ferry from Whittier to Chenega Bay. Camp was north of the ferry terminal on the east side of Evans Island. We camped quickly to avoid a storm.
Day 2 - 6/13 - no paddling - Layover day due to storm.
Day 3 - 6/14 - 14 miles - Paddled to Knight Island and camped on Squire Island at the kayak symbol on the NG map.
Day 4 - 6/15 - 22 miles - Paddled around Squire Island. That evening, we paddled to Dual Head and camped at kayak symbol. We wanted to get back across Knight Island Passage before upcoming major storm. Very good camp.
Day 5 - 6/16 - 8 miles - Layover day - Paddled into Humpback Cove early and then waited out storm at camp.
Day 6 - 6/17 - 9 miles - Paddled to Nassau Fjord and camped at kayak symbol inside the fjord at NW corner. 3 nights here
Day 7 - 6/18 - 4 miles - Layover day - Paddled around icebergs in Nassau Fjord.
Day 8 - 6/19 - 17 miles - Layover day - Paddled in and out of Icy Bay.
Day 9 - 6/20 - 16 miles - Paddled to Ewan Bay. Camped at small island at SE end of Bay.
Day 10 - 6/21 - 13 miles - Paddled to Eshamy Bay Lodge for food resupply. Bought a great dinner at the lodge. Camped on small island ¼ mile east of the lodge.
Day 11 - 6/22 - 15 miles - Paddled to Lighthouse Reserve and camped at kayak symbol east of light.
Day 12 - 6/23 - 17 miles - Paddled into Nellie Juan and camped ¼ mile west of kayak symbol in Deep Water Bay next to the river and waterfall. 5 nights here.
Day 13 - 6/24 - 14 miles - Layover day - Paddled into lagoon with icebergs at Derickson Bay.
Day 14 - 6/25 - 23 miles - Layover day - Paddled to Taylor Glacier in Kings Bay.
Day 15 - 6/26 - no paddling - Layover day - Hiked above camp on a rainy day.
Day 16 - 6/27 - 23 miles - Layover day - Paddled to Greystone Bay and then did a 2nd trip into Derickson Lagoon.
Day 17 - 6/28 - 20 miles - Paddled to Long Bay half way up Culrose Passage. Camped at very nice improved camp at the kayak symbol on north side of entrance to Long Bay.
Day 18 - 6/29 - 5 miles - Layover Day - Paddled to end of Long Bay and hiked to Shrode Cabin.
Day 19 - 6/30 - 15 miles - Paddled to Tebenkof Glacier and camped at the kayak symbol.
Day 20 - 7/1 - 26 miles - Layover day. Paddled to south end of Willard Island in Blackstone Bay.
Day 21 - 7/2 - 13 miles - Paddled to Whittier fighting head winds for the last 3-4 miles.
Total miles paddled = 278 miles, which included 131 miles of paddling during layover days.
